I'm a true believer in IdataLink and Maestro Products, but I have a very unique problem.

[2007TahorLTZ]

Let me start off by saying I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe with Bose. I Have a Kenwood DDX906s head unit. I also have the Kenwood XR600.6DSP amplifier and I've been using the Maestro RR to connect that, but then I disconnected the BOSE system in my 07' Tahoe. I obviously have to have the Maestro AR to make the Kenwood XR600.6DSP turn on (although I bought a 4 pin extension harness and connected a amp turn-on wire into it and it turns on just fine, without the AR.

The problem is I miss the functionally of only running 2 channels as input the "Universal Input" into the Kenwood 600.6DSP. The Tahoe comes with a speed compensated volume and having all those extra channels.

Now my question would be are you able to use the extension harness the Kenwood XR600.6DSP and splice it into the extension harness for the input of the Kenwood amp using either what comes from wires in or out of the BOSE amp, and even use the wires that comes in and out from the Maestro RR radio replacement I really like the Maestro RR radio replacement, way better than the PAC GM31, by farrrr, but now I have a Maestro AR already and would love to utilize that other than a $100 turn-on wire for it.

I'm hoping it'll be plug and play, but I haven't found too many wiring diagrams online because Maestro AR hasn't posted such a thing. If wiring is needing to be sliced & soldered, that is fine too.

I have the Bose system without the center speaker, and its a 2007 Tahoe so its not advanced...I also have pictures of every wire in and out of the amp, head unit, and anything else imaginable.

If anyone has any input, please let me know. Thank you so much!

[Chris LaRoche]

The Kenwood 6006DSP is a 2 channel amplifier, on the input side. It doesn't provide means of having a VSS input or 4+ channel input.

As far as the AR in this case, it is as you put it a "$100 turn-on wire" since the amplifier doesn't have a traditional 12v switched input option.

[2007TahorLTZ]

That is something I did not know! Thank you for clearing that up. I'm guessing it's all configured within the setup menu on the Kenwood amp? It has been too cold down here in Texas to try to mess with it. I'll have to return the Maestro AR I guess and just use the cheap 4 pin data cable and splice it into my amp turn on wire. Thank you so much for your reply! I'm gonna sleep better at night

[Chris LaRoche]

Splice into the data cable for turn on? That's not something I said at all.

The AR has to remain in place to turn the amp on...

[2007TahorLTZ]

It actually doesn't. I took the 4 pin cable that goes from my Kenwood head unit, and pushed it in the correct pin of the 4 pins on the data cable. Instanly turned on and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Turned the key off, and then the amp shut down.

I had actually just called iDataLink tech support and he said, and I quote, "The Maestro is there just for turning the Kenwood amp on."

[Chris LaRoche]

I think you left out part of the quote, and since it was me that you talked to...an accurate quote is:

"You still need the Maestro aR, because Kenwood's amp does not have a traditional 12v turn on input. It relies on the aR to turn the amp on"

Furthermore, the thread you referred to is not relevant to your situation. That thread is in regards to using a Maestro aR AND an Rr together, not replacing an aR with an RR compatible radio. Your case is different, as you are utilizing the aR as an amplifier turn on for the Kenwood, not as an amp replacement interface where the factory amp is removed (like you would on a 2006 Charger w/ factory amp). You're on the output side of your Bose amplifier, not using a T harness. The 06 Charger is flashing their RR as a factory amplified car (since DSR1/AR acts as an amp as far as the radio is concerned) and flashing their AR for the car as if it had a stock radio.

Long story short, you need to be using the aR for the amp turn on and the RR is used for your radio integration for gauges/SWC. Anything further, we do not support.

[2007TahorLTZ]

UPDATE:

I've decided, along with 7 out of 10 installers that this amp is garbage. I'm on my 2nd one, first one just started smoking inerally. I highly recommend not purchasing this amp. I have a 07' Tahoe and while the amp pushed clean, pure power, it comes with a cost. It's made to be vehicle specific and all the settings are made for specific vehicles. None of them are GM, Chevy, or GMC.

I ended up straight trading it for the Kenwood eXcelon with High-Res quality. Could. Not. Be Happier.

This amp takes too much work. With a retail price of $1,000.00 and then a $115 iDataLink Maestro and THEN a $55 vehicle specific T-Harness, you can count me out. I also see it discontinued in major resellers, gotta ask yourself why..

[Chris LaRoche]

I totally understand. In a universal application like yours it is a fine line to utilize something like the AR vs just running a normal amplifier with a turn on input designed to be more universally installed. Sorry to see you return it, but glad you have a solution that sounds like it's going to fit the ticket for your use case.

Thanks!

[2007TahorLTZ]

I totally understand. In a universal application like yours it is a fine line to utilize something like the AR vs just running a normal amplifier with a turn on input designed to be more universally installed. Sorry to see you return it, but glad you have a solution that sounds like it's going to fit the ticket for your use case.

Thanks!

I appreciate your kind words.

UPDATE #2 - After I got to the counter to return it, I actually saw the JL Audio RD900/5 and found it to be a better solution. I still have some things to work out, one of which being how to not use the external speaker and make the chimes go through the original front left or both front speakers? The chime speaker sounds horrible haha